Recipe: Cavatelli aka: Gnocchietti

Cavatelli aka: Gnocchietti AbruzzoCibus.com

In some parts of Italy this pasta is also known as gnocchetti or seashells. The rolling and forming of the pasta is not done for aesthetic reasons. It is practical because the ridges and/or small pockets in the cavatelli help to pick up and hold the sauce.

• ½ cup of unbleached, all-purpose flour
• 1 1/2 cups of grano duro (durum wheat flour)
• 3/4 tbsp vegetable oil or olive oil
• 1/2 cup or more of hot water
• 1 tsp baking powder
• Pinch of salt

Use a fairly large mixing bowl. Put the flour  and salt into the bowl. Add the vegetable oil.

Make a well and form a pool of a little hot water. Add the baking powder and let it foam. Mix with a fork to combine. Add more water a little at a time as necessary. When the flour comes together start using your hands.

Mix thoroughly with your hands until the dough comes together in a ball.

If the dough feels stiff, add a bit more hot water. The dough should be quite soft and a bit spongy.

Take the dough out of the bowl and knead for 4 to 5 minutes.

Cut of a piece of the dough (about the size of a plum), keeping the rest covered with a towel. Stretch and roll this piece between your hands to form a tube-like shape.

Place the dough on your work surface and, with a very light amount of pressure, roll your hands over the dough to stretch and thin it out. Continue until you have used all of the dough.

Cut the pasta tubes into small pieces.

Roll the pieces down over the tines of a fork, with some pressure, to form the cavatelli.* The pasta is now ready for cooking.

Cook the cavatelli in plenty of boiling salted water for about 4 minutes. Test with your teeth. They should be cooked through but with a little resistance to the teeth. Because they are made without eggs, the consistency is different than that of pasta made with eggs.

Drain well. Put them in a large serving bowl. Pour the sauce over them and mix well.

Makes four appetizer-size portions.

*If you are lucky enough to have a cavatelli attachment to your pasta machine, the work is faster. You just feed the tube of dough between the rollers while turning the handle. The machine forms and cuts the cavatelli, ready for the boiling water.

Recipe: Fennel & Orange Salad

Fennel & Orange Salad AbruzzoCibus.com

• 2 Tbsp olive oil
• 1 Tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice
• 1 tsp. chopped fresh herbs (thyme, parsley, marjoram or chives)
• 4 navel or blood oranges, peeled and sliced into thin rounds
• 2 medium fennel, thinly sliced
• 2 medium red onions, thinly sliced
• 20 black olives (optional)

Mix together oil, orange juice and herbs in a small bowl. Set aside.

Overlap the slices of fennel, orange and onions on a serving platter. Drizzle dressing over the top.

Garnish with the olives (optional) and fresh parsley. Serves 6 to 8

Recipe: Braciole

Braciole AbruzzoCibus.com

• pork cutlet
• sausage
• slice of parmesan or pecorino cheese
• 1 tsp chopped parsley
• 1 clove garlic
• Pinch of salt
• Pinch of pepper
• Pinch of nut meg
• Bay leaf
• Rosemary
• 1 cup vegetable broth
• Tomato sauce

Lay the pork cutlet flat on a cutting board and pound it to make it thinner and more tender. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt, pepper and nutmeg.

Lay the piece of sausage at the very top of the cutlet and sprinkle with parsley. Roll up the sausage inside the cutlet to create a roulade. Close it in the center with a couple of toothpicks.

Sauté over medium heat with extra virgin olive oil until golden brown on all sides. Add chopped tomatoes or tomato sauce to the pan along with a bay leaf and some rosemary. Cook the sauce down for a couple of minutes and then add a cup of vegetable broth. Cover the pan and let the braciola cook in the sauce for about one and a half hours on low heat. Check periodically to make sure the liquid has not evaporated too much.

Day 4: Lunch

Overheard at the Palazzo Tour d’Eau

That was a little bit of a party in my mouth, eh? - Canadian Karyn, re: Montepulciano tasting

The law of the sea

The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears or the sea. How about a little dip in the Adriatic? Yes, please.

Day 3: Vasto & the trabocco

We left this morning for Vasto, a fishing community of 40,000 people about 45 minutes northeast of Carunchio. Guided by our host’s father, who gave us an oral history of the region, we learned that the area is known for its white asparagus and olive oil. The scenic drive to the coast left Jessie and I green as ever, holding on for dear life in the back seat of that tiny European car. But we found a farmacia, procured some "travel gum" for the ride back and rejoined our group for a quick tour.

The "Sacra Spina"

Our host, Massimo, pointed out the more important historical symbols around town, including the Santa Maria Cathedral. The church is a ripe twelve centuries old and most famous for hosting the "sacra spina," one precious thorn from the crown Jesus once wore. The 2-inch spike is encased in an ornate tabernacle, where worshipers come from all over to get a close look.

After checking out the church, we explored the town's main street and made out with some sweet leather goods. (Gorgeous Italian leather purse for the win.) Then, we traveled about a mile up the coast to take part in an amazing seafood extravaganza. Seriously. I wanted to shake hands with each of the shellfish that made an appearance today.

The Trabocco

We traversed a long pier to make our way to a 200-year-old trabocco above the Adriatic Sea. There are only 19 of these “fishing houses” in Italy, we’re told, and we watched expectantly as a large fishing net was lowered into the sea, prepped to catch the next meal. See for yourself.

A couple of fishmongers cleaned a still-wiggling octopus right before our eyes before we  were regaled with a lunch of octopus salad, stuffed black mussels, fish cake, spaghetti with clams and a platter of fresh prawns, cod, anchovies and calamari.

That was the part where I gave thanks to God for sparing shellfish from the long list of food allergies I was saddled with from birth. Absolute bliss.

A long nap later and it was time to eat again! Dinner and photos of dinner:

• Tomato stuffed with barley and  cheese atop a green pea puree
• Pollo a la cacciatore, or chicken cacciatore, served with eggplant, fennel, peppers, onion and potatoes
• Vanilla custard cream housed in a filo dough and complimented with a Sambuca whipped cream and freshly pureed strawberry sauce

Loco for the trabocco

The "Sacra Spina"

Behold the tabernacle on display inside Santa Maria Maggiore, a cathedral built in 11th or 12th Century AD. The ornate vessel is home to a "sacra spina," or "Holy Thorn" said to have been worn in Jesus' crown on the day of his crucifixion.

Recipe: Stuffed Artichokes

Stuffed Artichokes AbruzzoCibus.com

6 medium artichokes

Look for round artichokes (globe) with stems. The leaves should be pliable and not too spiky.   Lemons are the key to prevent discoloration. Prepare a large bowl of water with lemon juice.

Working one artichoke at a time, cut the stem off at the base of the artichoke leaving it flat so as to stand on it’s own, and rub with lemon. Slice the top off  almost half-way down and rub the cut surface with lemon. Trim by pulling off the outer two or three layers of leaves (or more) until you expose pale, tender leaves.  Using a melon baler or small spoon scrape out the fuzzy choke on the inside. Rub again with lemon and drop into the lemon water.

Peel the outside layer of the stems. Treat with lemon and drop into the lemon water*

Prepare the stuffing:

Dice the stems of the artichokes and sweat until tender and translucent with

• 6 tbsp. olive oil
• 1 med. white onion, chopped fine

Add:

• 3 garlic cloves, chopped fine
• ¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped

Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and mix with:

• 14- oz. fresh breadcrumbs
• 1 tsp. ground hot pepper (paprika)
• 1/3 cup grated  pecorino cheese  (parmesan/Romano)
• 6 basil leaves, chopped
• S & P
• Olive oil

The mixture should be just moist enough to form a cohesive paste when squeezed.

Carefully spread open the artichokes spoon the stuffing into the cavities.  Place the stuffed artichokes in a low casserole w/lid making sure they stand securely.  Pour about 1 ½ -inches of water into the pan. Drizzle with a few more tbsp. of olive oil. Cover and Simmer over a low to med. flame until the artichokes are tender. 30 to 45 min. depending on the size and the number in the pan. Baste occasionally with their juices.

Allow the artichokes to cool down . They can be eaten warm or at room temperature. The sauce is wonderful with fresh crunchy bread. Stuffed artichokes can be made a day ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving. They will be even more flavorful.

* Prepared artichokes (before stuffing) can be stored completely covered with their lemon water for up to a day in the  refrigerator.

Overheard at the Palazzo Tour d’Eau

“I just got back from a walk. I’d like to lie down on this floor and hug the tile. Can you tell I’m in great shape?” – Kay, of Wisconsin

Overheard at the Palazzo Tour d’Eau

“I would love a colonic right now.” – Mandy, after our 4-course dinner

Day 2: The truffle hunt and the salami factory

It’s like a Disney movie around here. Every morning, we wake to birds chirping and sunlight pouring through the windows. Not to mention the girls turn every other phrase into a song!

The trek for truffles

Today, we set off with the group to hunt truffles with a pair of dogs and a guide. We're told Argo and Sara were trained as puppies to sniff out the elusive truffles by suckling truffle oil spread on their mother’s teat. Once old enough to hunt, the pair knew to seek the familiar scent. The dogs sit to indicate a ripe truffle and a guide digs it up.

We marched through cherry, peach and oak trees seeking the subterranean mushrooms, and came away with about half a dozen pungent black truffles that went straight from the ground into our spaghetti lunch.

The delicious meal was enjoyed at the butcher shop, which was formerly a jail and then a convent before its current state as a salami factory. The cured meats in Carunchio are non-processed and seasoned with only salt and pepper. Encased in pig’s bladder, the sausages are cured in mold, dipped in lard and hung to dry for months before being offered up for consumption. We delighted in antipasti of sorpresata, cappicola, pecorino and pancetta with fresh bread before dining on a delicious bowl of truffle-topped spaghetti.

After lunch, we walked around the village, attempting to communicate with the locals for directions to the local post office.  Only about 620 people live in this town, we learned. And very few speak English. Unsure how to get back to the Palazzo Tour d'Eau, we asked a sweet elderly man in a yellow wool sweater for help. He smiled through about three teeth and tipped his news boy cap. Then, that kind old soul walked us all the way back up the hill, pointing out his hometown in the distance on the way.

Cooking class

Tonight, we prepared a lovely wine-fueled dinner of:

• Pecorino nestled inside a few leaves of arugula, wrapped with prosciutto, drizzled with olive oil and complimented with three black olives (recipe)
• Stuffed artichokes (recipe)
• To-die-for tiramisu (recipe)

Recipe: Involtini di Prosciutto con Arugula e Pecorino

Involtini di Prosciutto con Arugula e Pecorino (Prosciutto rolled with aruglula and pecorino cheese) AbruzzoCibus.com

• 8 to 10 thin slices of prosciutto
• 8 to 10 shavings of pecorino/parmesan* (from a whole piece)
• 2 bunches of arugula (washed with hard stems removed)
• 1/4 cup (60 ml.) of olive oil
• juice of 1/2 lemon (strained)
• salt and freshly ground pepper
• 15 cured black olives, pits removed (optional)

On parchment paper, arrange the prosciutto in a single layer.

Pour the strained lemon juice in a non-reactive bowl. Slowly drizzle in the oil, whisking constantly. Drop in the arugula, add salt and pepper and toss thoroughly.

Starting at one end of the slice of prosciutto place a small bunch of arugula. Add 1 shaving of cheese. Roll into a roulade making sure it remains intact.

Continue with the remaining slices of prosciutto. Arrange on a plate. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with fresh ground pepper to taste. Garnish with black olives (optional).

SERVES 4 to 5

* In lieu of pecorino, you may use parmigiano, romano or grana cheese.

Tiramisu

TiramisuAbruzzoCibus.com

The name means "pick me up," and it does, indeed. There are many different versions of this popular dessert, but this is the true peasant version.

• 3 large egg yolks
• 2 Tbsp confectioners' sugar
• 1 Tbsp sweet Marsala
• 1 Tbsp water
• 250 grams (approx. 10 oz.) mascarpone cheese
• 1/2 cup strong coffee or espresso, cold and slightly sugared
• 12  lady fingers, broken into thirds
• 2 oz. combination of dark or milk chocolate, grated and dark cocoa

Beat the egg yolks and sugar together with an electric mixer until pale and thick. Slowly beat in the marsala and the water. Add the mascarpone, and beat until the mixture is thick and smooth. Next, drop three lady finger pieces in the bottom of each of  wine glass or other bowl shaped serving piece. Drizzle 1/3 to 1/2 of the coffee mixture over the lady fingers. Then, spoon in 1/3 to 1/2 of the mascarpone, and sprinkle with  the  chocolate mixture.

Repeat with one or two more layers (depending on the size of the glass) with the remaining ladyfingers, coffee, mascarpone, and chocolate. Cover and chill for 2 hours before serving.

Makes 4 to 6 servings, depending on the size of the glass.

Day 3: Dinner

A room with a view

 

What a quiet miraculous power a beautiful morning brings. The hills are alive indeed.

Hello, lover.

Meet the most divine square-shaped spaghetti I've ever laid taste buds on. Topped with our freshly shaved black truffles, this dish almost made me cry.

Overheard at the Palazzo Tour d’Eau

“I need to put my finger down my throat, but then I’d lose all this deliciousness.” – Jessie, re: 4-course Italian meal

Day 1: The "Texas girls"

In anticipation of pasta overload, I have Pilates'd and treadmill’d my way through this week in hopes that it might help cancel out the European smorgasbord I'm about to encounter. Wishful thinking, eh? Not that I’m complaining or anything. This foodie is more than happy to jump right into the arms of Italian gluttony.

Day 1

Made it. We’re in Carunchio. And the hills are alive! It looks like a scene from “The Sound of Music” right outside our window. And I’ll just go ahead and admit that the sight of that lush green landscape – and knowing we’ll be waking up to it for the next week -- may have induced age-regressing squeals from the three of us.

But let me back up to this morning.

Austin > NYC It’s a celebration. We’re on our way to Italy, so Bailey’s and coffee is in order at 9 a.m. That said, we got a little more than disapproving glances on cocktail consumption this morning from a Delta flight attendant who offered unsolicited warnings about the effects of alcohol at high altitudes. But after getting “KINDed” with a box of free snack bars from Jessie – and then listening enviously to the culinary trip we were about to embark upon – she subsequently sent us off with half a dozen mini bottles of vodka. WIN.

NYC > Rome

With a layover long enough to procure lunch in nearby Williamsburg, we booked it to Brooklyn for brunch. After sippin’ a couple of mimosas and popping into one of my favorite local boutiques, we headed straight back to JFK. No security lines. Double win.

The 9-hour flight almost went off without a hitch. Then, about an hour before landing, we watched as a man in the row in front of us reared back over the top of his seat, eyes rolling back in his head. He was having a seizure. Talk about a scary sight.  But whaddya know? A paramedic happened to be seated directly in front of him, so he and three other first responders were able to stabilize the guy and avoid an emergency landing. In total, there were at least four medical professionals on our flight -- all of whom answered the call when a flight attendant pleaded for assistance. An hour later, Roman paramedics came aboard to greet the man and his grateful wife.

Rome

We made it to Italy. And after obsessing all day over whether my bag would make it across the pond, it arrived safe and sound. Unfortunately, it was Jessie’s whose luggage showed up mangled and missing a wheel. But at least the contents were safe.

We made our way to the designated meet-up spot to find our group. Then, after a 3-hour bus ride east into Abruzzo, we arrived at the bottom of a hill in Carunchio. A group of old Italian men on a bench eyed our brightly clad American group as we climbed into a couple of vans to transport us half a mile uphill to the Palazzo Tour d’Eau, our gorgeous restored 300-year old hotel.

We represent Vancouver, Massachusetts, Colorado, Wisconsin, Alaska, Alabama, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, California, Illinois and Texas.  In fact, Jessica, Mandy and I have become known as “Texas” collectively. “Texas is here,” is what they say when we arrive at dinner.  “Here comes Texas.” And I think we're OK with that.

The Welcome Dinner

Once night fell, dinner was absolutely divine. The menu:

• popover (fresh puff pastry) with black truffles and Italian cheeses in a saffron sauce
•  gnocchiette in a porcini mushroom paste
• wild boar crusted with black truffles and pancetta on a bed of homemade applesauce
• semifreddo; a lemon panacotta-like custard with mixed berries

Check out the welcome dinner gallery for photos of tonight's meal.